If you missed my rum & cigg-soaked love letter to Montreal earlier, you can catch up here.
The Plateau (full government name: Le-Plateau-Mont-Royal) is an area bordered by Rue Sherbrooke in the south and Mont Royal to the west, and it’s where I spent 95% of my university days while at McGill. My first apartment in Montreal was in the Plateau, the best bars & clubs were here, and almost everyone else who went to McGill lived & partied in this neighborhood. Which is not to say it’s overrun with college kids. It’s a real neighborhood with a lot to offer, even if you’re over the age of 19.
The Main Drags
- Sherbrooke: This street runs east to west and (in my mind, at least) divides the city into things north of Sherbrooke (The Plateau, Outremont, Little Italy( and south of Sherbrooke (Griffintown, Old Port).
- Saint-Laurent: The go-to thoroughfare for bars and restaurants during university, Saint-Laurent runs north & south and intersects Sherbooke. I once puked in a trough in front of Ben Affleck on Saint-Laurent.
- Saint-Denis: Running parallel to the east of Saint-Laurent, Saint-Denis is also packed with cooler bars, restaurants and shops.
- Mont-Royal: This east-west street north of Sherbooke is also a good spot for drinking, dining & shopping.
Check in
There aren’t a ton of hotels in the Plateau, due to it being a real neighborhood, so we typically stay in Airbnbs. If you *must* stay in a hotel, I like the huge rooms of Hotel Le Relais Lyonnais, which is a little south of Sherbrooke on Saint-Denis.
Eat Like It’s an Olympic Sport

L’Avenue: Brunch is a way of life for Montrealers and back in 2004 I would wait more than an hour in line, outside, in the dead of the Canadian winter to eat here. I can’t do lines anymore, but the brunch is still A+.
La Banquise: This Bourdain-approved poutine spot is open 24 hours a day and serves a bunch of riffs on poutine, from the traditional version (cheese curds & gravy) to a vegan version, a Mexican-inspired one with guacamole & sour cream, and one topped with smoked meats (a tip of the hat to Schwartz’s, I suppose).


L’Express: Classic French brasserie with the black & white tiled floor, red leather banquettes, and suited waiters with long aprons. Make a res if you can or come for lunch when they first open, then order a great bottle of French wine with steak frites and nosh on the gratis bread and jar of cornichons.
BYOB places on Duluth: BYOB is big in Montreal and Avenue Duluth east of Saint-Laurent has a huge concentration of every style of cuisine, from French, Mexican and Greek to Hungarian, Middle Eastern and Italian restaurants where you can bring your own wine & beer to accompany your meal.
Fairmount & St. Viateur: The two most famous purveyors of the Montreal-style bagel, a chewy, seed-covered delight. The first time I visited I was perplexed, but if you know what to expect (order at the counter, no they don’t toast & spread cream cheese on them, take them to eat elsewhere) you’ll be golden.
Au Pied du Cochon: Martin Ricard’s ode to Quebec is one of my favorite Montreal restaurants. The vibes are good and the food is great (foie gras poutine, prosciutto carved tableside and topped with local maple syrup, the famous duck-in-a-can). If you don’t leave this restaurant loving Montreal, there’s something wrong with you.
Le P’tit Rustik: Haven’t been, but the breakfast/brunch menu at this cute spot on the corner of Duluth and Drolet looks awesome.
Drink Like a Local
MR250 Bar Lounge: Quirky, cash-only hangout with biker decor offering beer & cocktails & an attached tattoo parlour. I haven’t been but I just read this description on Google Maps and had to include it. Will also add to my (never-ending) list of places to try during my next visit to Montreal.
Le Darling: Tres cute coffee shop that turns into a cocktail bar at night.
Where to Caffeinate
Café Olympico: There are a few locations all over the city; the Plateau location is just as aesthetically pleasing as the others and makes an excellent cappuccino.
Kouign Amann Bakery: If you haven’t tried this Breton pastry (like a sticky version of a croissant?), stop reading and go.
Stalk the Stylish Locals
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Caroline is a model/singer whose posts are all about the fashion vibes, with a bit of restaurant inspo along the way.
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Dyan is the owner of Foxy and Olive & Gourmando and she gives a cool glimpse inside her life in Montreal.
Excursion-Worthy
Arthurs Nosh Bar: A Jewish-style deli with the most amazing pancakes.
Little Italy: I can barely call this neighborhood an excursion since it borders the Plateau to the north, but it’s worth the two-minute stroll to check out the outdoor market Marché Jean-Talon and grab a Sicilian slice and an Aperol Spritz from San Gennaro.
Damas: If you’re in the Plateau, you’re *so close* to Outremont, so you’ve got to try and get a res at my favorite restaurant in all of Montreal. Kitty corner from Damas is Bloomfield, a great Mediterranean brunch spot.
Foiegwa & Atwater Cocktail Club: Upstairs is Foiegwa the French diner and in the basement is ACC, which is consistently named one of the best bars in Canada.