Known as a trendy neighborhood that’s popular with expats from Japan, Thong Lor is an upscale spot to the east of central Bangkok that’s packed with restaurants, bars, clubs, condos and a few of Bangkok’s famous rooftop bars. It’s bookended by the Thong Lor BTS station to the south and Phetchaburi Road to the north.
If you’ve only got a few days in Bangkok, you’re going to want to stay somewhere more centrally located (either something on the Chao Phraya River or in the Siam Area) so you can easily access the major sights. But if you’ve got a couple weeks, and you know you’ll appreciate orchid-lined sidewalks and a quiet, residential escape from the madness of Bangkok’s rowdier side, Thong Lor is worth a look.
But, First: Some Terminology
A few helpful terms to familiarize yourself with before heading to Bangkok for the first time:
Sukhumvit: The name of a bustling area of Bangkok and also the major road that runs from downtown Bangkok to the Cambodia border. Along Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok, you’ll find a lot of the city’s red light districts (Nana, Soi 4; Cowboy, Soi 23), as well as the BTS, a rapid transit elevated sky train that connects to the city’s regular metro system.
Soi: A side street off a major road, usually numbered.
Wat: Thai word for Buddhist temple.
Ko or Koh: Thai word for island.
For more “intro to Thailand” info, check out my Beginner’s Guide to Thailand.
Getting Around
Grab: Make sure you’ve downloaded the Grab app before coming to Thailand because it’s going to how you book a taxi to/from the airports, order delivery food and schedule a motorbike to beat Bangkok traffic (helmets are provided upon request).
BTS: New rapid transit, above ground sky train that runs along Sukhumvit Road. Connects to the Bangkok metro.
Check In
MUU Bangkok: Located right on the main road about a 10-minute walk north of the BTS Thong Lor Station, MUU is a boutique hotel with a lot of personality, a rooftop pool and an over-the-top breakfast that’s likely included. Nightly rates start around $120/night for a large suite that includes a separate bedroom, kitchenette and living room. On the main floor, there’s a burger & fried chicken restaurant as well as a Din Tai Fung. They also offer a free tuktuk ride to the Thong Lor BTS station, saving you a 10-minute walk.
Eat Like an Olympic Sport
Thong Smith: Super popular spot for boat noodles.
Krua Jiang Mai: Northern Thai restaurant with an extensive khao soi menu and other traditional favorites.
Drink Like a Local
They may seem touristy at first, but Bangkok’s famous rooftop bars attract a healthy mix of locals and visitors alike. Some of my favorite ones in Thong Lor are Tichuca, TULUM and Lacol. If you want a really over-the-top rooftop bar, head one BTS stop over to TRIBE for a ‘beach club’ vibe complete with pool and cabanas. Top tips for visiting a rooftop bar: pack a jacket or extra layer since it gets windy 50+ floors up, check the dress code (a few spots can be strict with open-toed shoes & shorts), and bring your passport since they all card at the door.
Rabbit Hole: A Top 50 Bars in Asia spot with an insanely creative cocktail menu. Each featured cocktail is inspired by a major global city and includes wild ingredients like vegemite (Canberra), hoisin sauce (Beijing) and shakshuka sauce (Jerusalem). There’s also an extensive negroni menu with a ton of variations.
theCOMMONS: Kind of like a TimeOUT Market but cooler, this community hub hosts a variety of food & drink vendors (The Beer Cap and Sourced are great beer and wine/charcuterie options, respectively) and activities throughout the week.
Where to Caffeinate
City Boy Coffee Stand: Walk-up counter for coffee & espresso drinks on a soi off the main road.
RISE: Micro roastery and coffeeshop with very cool branding.
Stalk the Stylish Locals
View this profile on Instagram
Bangkok influencer with cute outfits and great cafe/restaurant recs.
View this profile on Instagram
I think he’s British, but has been based in Bangkok for awhile. Good for local BKK recs and general SEA travel.
Take a Break from Eating & Drinking
There’s no shortage of massage, hair & nail care salons in Thong Lor, so take an afternoon off from racing around Bangkok on the back of a Grab bike and treat yourself to a spa day. Then head back to the MUU for happy hour at the pool.
Worth a Detour
Talat Noi: A quiet neighborhood on the east bank of the river opposite the behemoth luxury mall ICON SIAM, Talat Noi is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Bangkok. Its tiny streets are packed with traditional tea and coffee shops, vintage finds and graffiti.
Lumphini Park: A centrally located park with friendly cats roaming about and monitor lizards creeping along the shores of a little pond.
